The resulting “corners” are especially noticeable with larger balls, which is especially unpleasant when they are used as a head, body or other element of an amigurumi that is supposed to look “organic” and round (except maybe you want to crochet a robot). The following instructions only serve to illustrate why this variant should normally not be used. The following variation should be avoided from the beginning on, as it produces a much more “angular” looking ball. Finish: Cut the yarn, close the opening and weave in.repeat till end of the round (6 stitches). Round 18: Fill the ball with polyfill.Round 17: repeat till end of the round (12 stitches).Round 16: 1 sc, 1 decrease, repeat 5 times, 1 sc (18 stitches).Round 15: repeat till end of the round (24 stitches).Round 14: 2 sc, 1 decrease, repeat 5 times, 2 sc (30 stitches).When crocheting amigurumi, I recommend using the “ invisible decrease” as the default for crocheting stitches together, since this creates a cleaner and nicer result than the “normal decrease”. Round 7-13: 7 rounds, each round 36 sc (36 stitches).įinally, crochet rounds with decreases and eventually close the ball. ![]() rounds crocheted for the circle plus 1 more round to get a suitable middle part. You can also use this calculation as a rough rule of thumb for bigger and smaller balls, i.e. For this example, we crocheted 6 rounds in total plus 1, so 7 rounds. For the middle part, crochet as many rounds without increases or decreases as you crocheted rounds for the just finished circle plus 1. You will learn more about this further below under “Crochet Spheres in any Size”. If you crochet a bigger ball, you continue crocheting all increases every 2nd round after the 4th round offset. As you can see, the increases in round 4 and 6 were crocheted offset to the previous rounds. You should now get a reasonably round circle.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |